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Ships by Class/Type: Destroyers
This forum covers all types of destroyers from all eras.
Hosted by Todd Michalak
HMS MALCOLM SCOTT CLASS FLOTILLA LEADER 1/
RedDuster
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Posted: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 06:57 AM UTC
My next project, to fill the empty slipway.

HMS Malcom was an Admiralty type flotilla leader built late in the 1st World War, most commisioning after the end of the war, they were enlarged verions of the V/W armed originally with 5 4.7" guns. The kit reperesents HMS Malcolm in 1942, when she had be converted into a Long Range Escort.

The Kit is by the polish firm AJM, Resin & etch and very complete.












Keel laying will hopefully be this weekend.

Cheers

Si
Fordboy
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Posted: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 07:14 AM UTC
Ahoy Simon

Looks like a great kit Simon.

Nice choice.

Cheers


Sean
RedDuster
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Posted: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 07:27 AM UTC
Thanks Sean,

Not built anything by these guys before except for a couple light guns.

Certainly a lot to it. If I like this one, I might get a couple of the others they do, as they are in different fits.

Glad to have long you along.

Cheers

Si
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 08:26 AM UTC
SI,

The keel laying is already done. It looks to me like you have to do the fitting out, which I am sure you will do wonders. Looks like a fun build. Looking forward to your next post.

Mark
JJ1973
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Posted: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 04:30 PM UTC
Si,

even though I turned into a rather seldom visitor these days, of course I'm in here and following your newest build! That's another very interesting project, I do really like those RN destroyers, if your experience with the kit is a good one, I could be very well interested in one of those!! So I'll be watching with interest (even though I might not be the most active commenter...)

Cheers,
Jan
RussellE
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Posted: Thursday, July 19, 2018 - 12:19 AM UTC
Si, of course, I'm along for the ride too
RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, July 19, 2018 - 07:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

SI,

The keel laying is already done. It looks to me like you have to do the fitting out, which I am sure you will do wonders. Looks like a fun build. Looking forward to your next post.

Mark



Not yet Mark.

The upper and lower hull parts both have a meaty mould plugs on them to remove first.

Lots of small parts, and the etch is extensive, so this is going to an interesting build.

Cheers

Si
RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, July 19, 2018 - 07:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Si,

even though I turned into a rather seldom visitor these days, of course I'm in here and following your newest build! That's another very interesting project, I do really like those RN destroyers, if your experience with the kit is a good one, I could be very well interested in one of those!! So I'll be watching with interest (even though I might not be the most active commenter...)

Cheers,
Jan



Hi Jan,

Always good to have you along for the ride I hope this is going to be good. AJM also produce two other Scott's in different fits, and fancy those too.

Cheers

Si

RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, July 19, 2018 - 07:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Si, of course, I'm along for the ride too



Thanks Russ,

Glad to have you along.

Cheers

Si
RedDuster
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Posted: Wednesday, July 25, 2018 - 08:39 PM UTC
Last weekend's progress.

The pour plugs on the upper and lower hull halves.



Removed, and the hull halves fitted together. Bit of sweat with a razor saw, and the sort of file you don't use in the workshop much.




Lower hull was slightly longer, form the fit, it seemed to be the stern that was out, the profile on the bow fitted very well.



Fixed, and being filled, my waste removal skills were not 100%



The little dink in the bow being fixed.



and done.



Underpinnings on. I managed to break the rudder cleaning it up, so a replacement was made from a bit of brass rod and some plasticard.



Finally sprayed with a coat of Halfords red primer.



Hull camo next.

Cheers

Si
d6mst0
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Posted: Thursday, July 26, 2018 - 12:15 AM UTC
SI,

That hull looks wonderful. I see you filled in the lower portholes, why?

Mark
RedDuster
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Posted: Saturday, July 28, 2018 - 02:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

SI,

That hull looks wonderful. I see you filled in the lower portholes, why?

Mark




Thanks Mark,


That was just sanding dust, before I'd cleaned it up. I did make all the port holes a bit shallower, they were almost flush with hull on the real thing. and as they would generally had deadlights screwed shut behind them been almost invisible.

Cheers

Si
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, July 29, 2018 - 06:02 PM UTC
great job on the filler and sanding, Si
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 05:00 AM UTC
Simon: Are you using the Halfords red primer as your final coat for the lower portion of the hull? I have used a similar red primer by Dupli-Color, on a couple of my 1/350 DD's.

Assuming you do,I will be anxiously awaiting to see how you manage the camouflage and boot topping on this one.

Nothing better in the model world than a well done destroyer.
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 06:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

great job on the filler and sanding, Si



Thanks Russ,

It was "fun" I have yet to get the hang of removing poor stubs from hulls without doing some damage.

Cheers

Si
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 08:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Simon: Are you using the Halfords red primer as your final coat for the lower portion of the hull? I have used a similar red primer by Dupli-Color, on a couple of my 1/350 DD's.

Assuming you do,I will be anxiously awaiting to see how you manage the camouflage and boot topping on this one.

Nothing better in the model world than a well done destroyer.




Hi Chuck,

Yes I will, it is a fairly good match, and with wartime shortages in British shipyards, whatever anti fouling paint they had was used, so the actual shade is anybody's guess.

Plan will be mask off along the lower edge of the boot topping, spray WA white, add the WA green & the B5, then mask the top edge of the boot topping and paint in.

Thanks for looking in.

Cheers

Si




Quincannon
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Posted: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 03:33 PM UTC
I fully agree on the exact shade Simon. The only day it really is correct is the day that the hull is painted on the prototype.

I hope you will find the time to document the full hull painting procedure with photos. Every day you don't learn something new or a different way to go about something is a day, in my opinion, that is wasted.
Cosimodo
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Posted: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 10:13 PM UTC
Just caught up on this one. Looks like another one of your excellent small builds in resin. Always interested to see how these play out and it looks like its been a bit of challenge so far but you seem to have addressed the issues very well.

cheers
Michael
RedDuster
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Posted: Saturday, August 04, 2018 - 09:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I fully agree on the exact shade Simon. The only day it really is correct is the day that the hull is painted on the prototype.

I hope you will find the time to document the full hull painting procedure with photos. Every day you don't learn something new or a different way to go about something is a day, in my opinion, that is wasted.



Hi Chuck,

I think, certainly with wartime RN vessels there is a little too much obsession on that is perceived to be the correct shade (Ducks behind the armoured bulwark as the volley criticism comes in). Two points I will make, firstly paint weathers I sailed on Shell Tankers in the late 70s / early 80sand they had the iconic red funnel with the yellow shell on it. Fresh out of dock it was a rich red and bright yellow. didn't take that long for the colour to start weathering, by the time of the next docking it weathered to a deep pink and cream. Secondly a lot of Camo colours were mixed either in the yard or on board the ship, they used a system called by Petty officers as "TLAR" - That looks about right. They all started off slightly different, and then weathered differently depending on the mixture and the conditions the ship has served in.

Will do. Intending to get the masking on and spray the white today, it is nice and warm, so might even get a second colour on.


Cheers

Si
warshipbuild
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Posted: Sunday, August 05, 2018 - 05:22 AM UTC
Have to agree with the sentiment on paints Si.

It never seems to end. Last year's shade was 100% authentic from a chip or swatch. This year it isn't, but hey, we'll be very happy to sell you the correct one. It smacks of marketeering to me.

Given that weathering and scale effect pretty much nulify any 'percieved accuracy ' of the original colour, I don't know why they bother - Oh yes I do! Money!
How many more sets of emporer's new cloths do we have to buy before we get it 'right'?
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, August 05, 2018 - 01:18 PM UTC
I agree on the paints (and I apply this to pretty much every model I make):

If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck... Then it's probably a duck.

Why stress over 100% accuracy? This is, supposed to be fun, afterall
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 12:05 AM UTC
When we last painted the house, my wife chose Candy Apple Aztec,Summer Fall Winter Sporing White. That;s not the real name of course, but I am sure you get the idea. Living in the high desert as we do, within a week, it looked remarkably like, of all things, WHITE.

The paint police have not made it to my street yet, but now with the sidewalks being fixed, I expect them any day now, to tell me that I am not up to their high standards of what White should look like
d6mst0
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 01:02 AM UTC
Chuck,

Those colors don't seem bad to me. When I lived in Denver my neighbor painted their house the colors of the Denver Broncos, including the roof. Love the team, hated the orange color. Then they painted their car and mini-van in the same colors. God how I hate Bronco orange.

Mark
Quincannon
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 04:11 AM UTC
We have one painted like that near where I live as well.

I recently built "O'Bannon as she appeared a the end of the war, a round bridge Fletcher with the mid war modifications that consist of 5 twin 40mm mounts, and the addition of directors for those mounts. I used as a guide a picture of O'Bannon taken in 1949 when she was temporarily brought out of mothballs for conversion to a DDE. O'Bannon had been painted in overall Haze Gray during the post war decommissioning process, and by 1949 she appeared in a very clear photo to be overall dirty white. The gray had faded and weathered that much.

I then saw a picture of O'Bannon after conversion, again placed in mothballs, all spiffy with a new coat of Haze Gray and large shaded bow numbers, tied up with a group of other destroyers that had remained unconverted and still in mothballs. The difference was dramatic.

The conclusion that each of us must draw then is that if we wish to build and present a model as a smaller version of a builders model, like those produced by Gibbs and Cox, then the exact paint specification should be used. If we intend on the other hand to depict a ship in service practically any shade close to those specific standards will do. I believe that is what Simon is saying, and I believe him to be 100 percent correct, paint police notwithstanding.
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, August 06, 2018 - 06:28 AM UTC
Thanks Guys,

Have enjoyed reading your latest comments, and appreciate your support.

I glad the colour police don't seem to patrol this forum.

Mark, I understand the orange thing, the house my mother & father and I moved into back in the early seventies had a lot of orange paintwork in the interior décor. Spent may weekends trying to paint it out in something more soothing.

Cheers Guys