Building The Fujimi 1/350 IJN Kongo, Part 1
I would first like to thank Dragon USA for supplying the Fujimi 1/350 IJN Kongo used for this build review. Next I would like to thank Dade for his blood, sweat, and tears he had to of shed during this build. This is part 1 of 2 parts for this build review.
The Kongo was the class lead of a group of Imperial Japanese Navy battle cruisers. The Kongo herself was built by Vickers in England in 1913, and was the last major Japanese warship built abroad. This was so the Japanese could study the latest improvements in nautical design at the time from the Royal Navy and adapt them to the IJN's own ships (the Kongo's three sisters were built in Japan).
The Kongo was modernized between 1929-1931 and re-rated as a battleship, and after 1936-1937 more refits culminated in a lengthened hull, new machinery, heavy armor and faster speed.
Various upgrades throughout the Second World War gave her radar and a massive array of anti-aircraft weaponry in her final configuration. The Kongo was involved in the Battle Off Samar, and was in the thick of the fighting against Taffy 3. She is variously credited with taking part in the action against (or sinking) the USS Gambier Bay, USS USS Samuel B. Roberts, USS Hoel, and USS Johnston.
The Kongo soldiered for almost another month, until being found by the submarine USS Sea Lion, who sunk her with torpedos. She was the only battleship of the IJN to be sunk by a submarine, and the last battleship ever to be sunk like this.
Displacement: 36,601 tons Dimensions: 728'4" x 101'8" x 31'9" Speed: 30 knots Armament: 8 x 14"/45, 16 (later 14) x 6"/50, 8 x 5"/40 DP, up to 118 x 25mm AA Armor: 8" belt, 2.75" (later strengthened) deck, 9" turret face Crew: 1360
This build will contain the following items from, Fujimi and the aftermarket:
Fujimi Kongo Deluxe Photo Etched Parts (#11153) Fukuya 15cm and 12.7cm brass barrels (#350-23) Shinsengumi 1/350 wooden deck set (#015)
Prologue: The Base
Taking a slight detour, we'll look at mounting this model. The kit comes with a very basic arrangement of two plastic cradles that many builders will quickly replace. Because the cradles are not attached to one another, they move around freely from one another and can't be used reliably even during construction. Plan ahead for your base as it will make construction much easier in later stages.
As always, I asked my father to work his magic and make a base according to my specifications-- he didn't disappoint. I filled the tops of the brass tubes with Tamiya Epoxy Putty to better distribute the weight of the ship. The Kanji is the self adhesive brass that comes with the deluxe PE set.
Looking ahead, here's the primered hull test fitted onto the base. When the hull is painted and ready, I will epoxy it to the base.